First Week

01 January 2011

I can hardly believe its January and Im in Baghdad, Iraq, unbelievable. I have had a great day today. This is my second day at the job and so far, I have nothing to complain about. The person I am replacing, MSgt Brown, has been giving a very good turn over. We actually started communicating a few weeks ago via email and by a few phone calls. By already having a rapport, meeting in person was a breeze. The air flow here is lighter than what it was at Bagram, but Im told as the drawdown continues our tempo will pick up.  I plan on using my time to complete some professional development courses I have been putting off and being involved in volunteer organizations here on base. The atmosphere is very comfortable and flexible in allowing members to pursue outside activities as long as the mission is not compromised. Without activities or personal goals, one can go a little crazy.

Today I went for an adventure, but we called it “orientation” and some could accurately call it a boondoggle. MSgt Brown, MSgt Lettice and myself left Sather and explored of base. At first, this sounds like we went outside the wire, but we did not. Baghdad International Airport (BIAP) is made up of several compounds-Camp Victory, Camp Liberty and Sather Air Base. There were several more during Operation Iraqi Freedom (OIF), but as the Army and Marines have drawn down, their bases have closed. I believe our official campaign is now called New Dawn. The entire compound is roughly 50 sq miles.

I keep trying to think how to describe how this place looks, but words escape me. Bagram was a mix of Tijuana meets the Wild Wild West and this place is like an urban sprawl of military bases colliding with no rhyme or reason to the layout. If you think of the wooden maze game with a ball that moves around the holes that is what BIAP looks like, but mazes within mazes. The maze walls are made out of concrete 15’ high “T” walls; put these games together to form a square and you are the ball trying to navigate BIAP. Each area within Sather is lined with these walls. Our sleeping area perimeter is lined with these and then within that area are smaller squares lined with these walls. Inside the squares are our billeting trailers. Outside of our door is a smaller “T” walls protecting the entrance. Anywhere you think would be a fence, picture “T” walls. My home away from is on the left marked with the plastic flowers. The flowers have seen better days, but it acts as a good land mark for me. You can see the 15' walls in the background surrounding this POD. There are several PODS within the living area.

Back to the boondoggle- the three of us headed to the armory and drew our weapons. Currently personnel on Sather are not armed 24/7 and anytime you leave, you must draw your weapon. I have to say its pretty nice this time around as I am qualified to carry an M9 Berretta and I don’t have to lug around my trusty friend the M16A2 draped over my shoulder. An additional bonus was I had to buy accessories and who doesn’t like to shop for coordinating shoulder holsters? A girl does like to match after all. Brown drove and I was instantly amazed as we left our compound. As I mentioned, the entire area is approx. 50 sq miles. As we drove it was a sea of “T” walls and mini camps and vehicles going in every direction. Helicopters were flying overhead adding to the surreal feel of the day. We came to the PX on Camp Liberty and the entrance to the parking lot has a sign “No vehicles larger then MRAP authorized.” I suppose this is similar to no semi trucks allowed. It had recently rained and the parking lot was a giant mud pit. The dirt here is very fine and the ground hard, when it rains there is nowhere for the water go and it just makes mud. As far as field PX’s go, this was a big one with every comfort a soldier would want. It had TV’s, appliances, snacks, game boxes, you name it. There was one hadji shop inside selling leather goods. He was packing up and today was his last day. There was a beautiful butterfly style chair handmade out of leather that caught my eye. I felt a little foolish wanting to buy something my first day and Brown said he would drive me to another area where they might also be. If the other places did not have any, we could come back for it. We hopped in the truck and headed back out.

As Brown drove he also gave a little history of the place. Back before we occupied this area, it had been Saddam’s private hunting area and had been a lush forest. To look at it today filled with mud and concrete barriers it was hard to imagine. We drove by lakes with homes built on the edge and overhanging the water. Rumor has it, his regime thought if you committed crimes over water, God could not see it. There our tours offered of the different palaces here and it gives me something to look forward to plus involves additional adventures. Brown also said while he took a tour of the Baath Party House, the tour guide said the indoor swimming pool had been built as a spectator sport for torture. Forensics had confirmed this with the samples they took from the walls. There was a palace on the opposite side of the lake that is also available for tours, but we headed in a different direction and saved that for a different day.

We pulled into a strip mall of sorts that had little shops selling trinkets. Parallel to the strip was a seating area with little fire pits all the way down. There are also a few dining shops to include a Turkish Restaurant. During the evening the fire pits are lit and personnel sit around and socialize by eating and smoking the hookah. I cant say Im interested in the hookah part, but when I have a day off, I would like to come back in the evening and enjoy a Turkish meal with friends.  I did not find any leather chairs and we headed back to the main PX.

When we first were at the PX, we ran into some folks we knew and they had been shopping also. It seems today was the last day for many of the vendors. Their contracts had expired and as the drawdown continues, services are also being eliminated. They mentioned not only the hadji vendors, but some of the food vendors as well like Burger King and Subway. I have a feeling the BIAP I see today, will not be the same one I see when I leave. I have heard many of the jobs are being replaced with contractors. My cynical side is wondering just how are we pulling out when all we are doing is replacing personnel with civilian contractors. By December 31, 2011 Sather AB will be turned over to the State Department, ie civilians.

We headed to the leather good area and the store owner was packing up the last of his goods. The boys did their best at haggling with the shop keeper for a better price, but he didn’t budge.  We tried every Mexican border town haggle, but he kept firmed.  There must have been a neon sign flashing on my forehead that I was leaving with that chair no matter the cost. I walked out the proud owner of a new leather chair and we headed back to work.

Scotty was feeling manly and took the duty of assembling the parts. With minimum written direction provided, he took 6 metal U shaped tubes and after much laughter and deciphering of the color code, it came together. We draped the leather seat over the frame and it was a beautiful thing. It soon became known as the camel chair. As Scotty pointed out when asked, “You don’t see any cows around here do you?”

07Decemeber 2011

Its Turkey Day, once a month the Turkey Embassy sends a bird over to pick up and drop off embassy employees. It requires very little support from us and is a pretty simple mission. Scotty has already turned over the reins and is now out processing- boondoggling.  Being this was my first time he showed up to ensure a smooth turnover. When it was all said and done, I turned to him and asked if he had been asked to be in pictures with the various outbound embassy staff like I had been. He laughed and said no ma’am. It looks like you have something I don’t.  I guess woman serving is a little bit of an oddity.  

The main reason he came over was to finish his orientation of the base with me. Our previous drive had not covered the entire compound.  We headed out of Sather and made a left rather than the a right as we did the previous time.

 I'm truly amazed how large this compound is. I wish I had been here a few years ago when it was in its hay day and filled with troops. Its rather like an empty ghost town with a fading past. We past old signs directing traffic to now closed bases and again roads lined with “T” walls.

We first headed to Flintstone Village. I tried Googleing to confirm the story, but all I found were other people’s blogs and little facts. The story goes Saddam’s daughter’s husbands realized that dear old dad was a sandwich short of a picnic basket and headed to Jordan. After much persuasion and promises of forgiveness from Saddam, the two families headed back to Iraq. Shortly after the arrival home, Saddam had the two husbands shot. Feeling somewhat remorseful for the grandchildren he left fatherless, he built Flintstone Village based on the American film from the ‘80’s.  We walked around the paths with tunnels, fun play rooms and open areas. As different coalition forces have visited, they have left their “mark” with various tributes there to units, loved ones and home states.  

The weather and time has taken its toll on the structure, but it is easy to see the construction was not the best quality. You could see the thin layer covering the rebar with a large fall into the mucky lake/seepage water below. Even when finished and in pristine condition, I could not image a group of young kids running around this attraction. Maybe Ive been brainwashed with today’s over reaction to everything safety, but there is no way I would have allowed a small child to play there.

We then drove around the Palace, Victory Over America and took more pictures. I have a tour next Saturday with an official tour guide and I'm looking forward to hearing the history of this building and actually walking through it.

Scotty then pointed our truck in the direction of the highlight of this trip. There is a true grocery store, not a commissary or run by the government.  As we drove he would quiz me as to where we were and how we would we get home. I'm not kidding when I say everything looks the same and it’s a maze of roads.

I found my nirvana. It has aisles with food, a refrigerated section, a meat counter and the all important dairy section. I have no idea what the packages say, but I can read pictures. I figured out the package with a picture of the cow is butter and the glass jar with olive oil is feta.  I think I'm on a roll here. I picked up a square of “Extra Tasty” and looked for the cracker section. Slim pickings as my two choices are something that looks like melba toast and vege cracker. Vege cracker it is. The heavens opened and I heard trumpets. I walked up and down the little store and marveled at the shelves. I cant wait to go back.

We headed back to work and it was a good day.