Scout Program

22 January 2011

There is a compound across the road from our main gate called Area 4. My description is solely based on what I have been told and I will later find out there is much more to the story. When Scotty first showed me around, he pointed to the area parallel to the main road with the high fence and lined with concertina wire. The fence is sprinkled with manned armed towers and along the road are signs warning of no photography or stopping at anytime. From what I have been told, my understanding of Area 4 is it is an Iraqi compound that pre-dates our occupation. Currently there are Iraqi Special Forces being trained by our Special Forces. Those Iraqi soldiers who are being trained there have their families living on the compound with them as it is too dangerous for the families to live on the local economy. If it were known their husbands were Special Forces, their lives could be endangered. Part of the support the compound receives is two outreach volunteer programs we the troops support: The Good Neighbor Program (GNP) and Scouts.  For the GNP, personnel donate items on a continuous basis such as shampoo, soap, various hygiene items, etc. Once a month a group of volunteers meet and travel to Area 4 to distribute goods and play with the kids. The other program, Scouts, is similar to the Boy/Girl Scouts program we have in the United States. Every Saturday a group of volunteers meet and also go to Area 4 and the purpose is to solely support the children by having organized activities and play time. Since Saturday is my day off, I didn’t have any conflicts and signed up.  

I knew Manriquez was planning on going and we made plans to meet at ATOC. Since we were leaving Sather we had to grab our IBA’s and figure out transportation to Area 4. What I didn’t realize was there were actually 6 of us going and one of them was my nemesis from BAF. I just cannot seem escape him. I told myself before leaving on deployment, I was going to grow and learn from the last deployment. I was not going to stress out, yell, lose my cool, or any other behavior not becoming. I am proud to say, I have kept my word. I have come close once or twice, but I have walked away and vented with Julie. I have to add, I do find it amusing though how others are seeing him the same way I do. He is in a position now with a higher sphere of authority and his true traits come out for others to observe.

Anyway, we met and piled in to the truck and headed off base.  I was the only girl and found great delight in watching the five boys figure out where we were supposed to go. They would take turns with turn here, follow those cars, no turn here, and park there. We couldn’t just drive on to Area 4. It has its own gate and is posted with more signs at the entry stating deadly force is authorized. Our instructions were to meet the group by the dirt road just north of the gate. There was a dirt road of sorts and we pulled over to wait. I have to give kudos to the person driving as the others chipped in on what we should be doing and where we should be going, he never responded or took the bait. I'm not sure I would have had the patience to keep my tongue still.  A few minutes passed and the main coordinator Tim came up to us and told us we need to be on the other dirt road. How silly of us. We turned around and joined the small convoy of trucks and vehicles that had begun to gather. Tim passed around the access roster and verified we were on the list. We saddled up and the vehicles formed a long snake as we headed to the gate. We entered with no issues and continued to follow the vehicle in front of us.

As we drove through Area 4, I was amazed to see the living conditions. I was not prepared to see the main road of Tijuana as you head south towards Ensenada. There were buildings that looked like barracks with camo patterns painted on the walls with broken windows and doors, new buildings not finished yet and then a shanty village with laundry on the line. I don’t know how descriptive I am allowed to be, but if you have ever driven through a border town, you understand. We continued to drive and came to the playground. We all parked our vehicles and walked into the playground. It was like any playground USA. There were swing sets, teeter totters, covered patio areas, large open fields and the best part, a huge group of children.

For us newbies, we were told this was open play time and walk towards the kids and play. When the Scout Master blew the whistle, follow the kids as they gathered up. I started to walk towards the kids and a little girl made a bee line towards me and took my hand. She led me to the group of girls and we sat on a bench. I had no expectations of the day and was not sure of what to expect. I hadn’t even thought about a language barrier and was surprised to realize, the girls didn’t speak English. They have a few phrases memorized such as “Please Miss, please.” They have this down very well. Through hand signs and body language you can figure out what the kids want always followed with “Please Miss, please.” One girl kept pointing to my sunglasses so I handed them to her and she quickly put them on and had a huge smile. When I motioned for the glasses back, she pulled back and repeatedly said “Please Miss, please.” I quickly learned that lesson.

Shortly after, the whistle blew and all kids ran to the assembly area. They formed up into a little platoon and officially started the day. They stood in front of several flags and when the Scout Master would say something they would all answer in unison. This happened several times and then they broke out in song. I'm assuming they sang their national anthem as they stood facing the flags and were all at attention. After finishing, we were asked to sing ours.

All of the children were standing tall and singing loud. It appeared every one of them knew the words to the song. When we sang Star Spangled Banner, the people standing directly around me

were silent. I could hear a few words and mumbles of attempts, but not the whole song. I could hear some singing coming from the other end of our group and one woman up front had a beautiful voice and she sang every note. I tried to focus on her voice as I was becoming upset. I couldn’t think of a better place to be proud of our country and I was embarrassed we lacked the same dedication in knowing our own song.  I take things like this too personally I'm sure, but is it not each person’s responsibility to know the simple things like our National Anthem? Sadly, I have come to expect people talking during the singing of the National Anthem at home, not removing their hat and not knowing the words, but I was shocked to find it also existed among us serving and protecting our flag. All of this soap boxing makes me wonder if my own kids know it. If you all are reading this, there will be a test when I get home, so start practicing!

The Scout Master blew his whistle again and the kids broke up in to groups; boys and girls and by age groups. I headed towards the girl groups and went to the craft tables. The project was making picture frames out of soft foam cut outs. There were colored strips, glue, and fun add ons.

The object was to take four strips, glue them in a rectangle shape and then glue add ons to the strips to decorate it. The end result is not what I would describe at a picture frame, but the girls had fun making their creations. The energy was very frantic and they were quick to grab what pieces they wanted.  I found myself having a hard time engaging as I couldn’t communicate with them and would stand watching them instead. One of the volunteers handed me scissors and I became the official cutter. As the strips were glued together there would be an overhang. The girls would tug on my sleeve, point and I would cut.

After helping with the craft, I moved onto another craft project. One of the volunteers had made colored dough out of flour, water, salt and dye.  The name of this game was to take a Styrofoam container lid, line it with foil, rub oil on it, flatten out a ball of dough, and then press your hand in it to make a permanent hand print. These disks would then be baked and later returned. I can’t imagine this girl’s CHU. She said she did all the prep work the night before. The containers were actual lids ripped off of the to-go containers from the chow hall and she had made all of the dough balls and had them in individual bags. Her hands were stained like a rainbow.

This craft had both boys and girls and there was the same frantic energy of needing everything now.

I headed to the field where a group of girls were playing a game of sorts.  I sat down in the ring and soon learned it was duck duck goose. It didn’t take long for me to be the goose as I chased the girls in a circle. All the girls were laughing and having fun. As I sat in the middle of the ring other girls would join me and sit on my lap or pile on me. Again, all filled with laughter.

The girls were corralled up and sent over to the conex boxes as the boys continued to play basketball and other games. A previous volunteer who had already rotated home had led a shoe drive asking friends and family from home to send their used athletic children shoes. Today, all of the girls were to receive shoes and they were very excited. They lined up in rows of two and eagerly waited. I don’t know where the articles came from, but there were also new packages (one size fits all) of knit gloves, hats and jackets.

We had about 15 minutes left of our day and it was filled with free play again. I headed over to the swings and played with the girls some more. I pushed them on the swing and then joined them as one of the guys came over and pushed us all.

I had asked questions to Tim and Erin throughout the day and was amazed by their dedication. Tim has been a contractor for several years and will be here until the very end. Erin has been here around a year and volunteers all of her days off. The hope is the program will continue without them and they are working with the local adults in hopes they will pick up the torch. They are also trying to find a scout program in the States that could sponsor them as well. The children go to school, but just about every supply they have has been donated by the Scouts program. Occasionally a trip can be arranged for the Scout Volunteers to visit the school and Tim says it looks like an empty room. They have nothing.

Volunteering with the kids was an extraordinary experience. As I played duck duck goose, I realized language wasn’t all that big of deal. I think fun is international and I just needed to put myself out there. The kids are so happy to just have us there that a smile goes a long way.

The Scout Master blew his final whistle call and the kids all ran to the assembly area. One of the other main phrases they have memorized is “Mister Mister, watch Mister.” Tim had arranged for all the kids to receive a children’s watch to continue the joke. The kids headed to the various buses and headed home.   

The other main coordinator, Erin, asked if we were going to eat with the adult volunteer group at the “kabob place” and then go to the Modif afterwards. The only two who were not on shift was Nemesis and myself.  The other four were on duty and needed to head back. Erin assured the two of us if we wanted to stay we would have a ride back to Sather. Nemesis or not, I didn’t want to pass up the opportunity. The kabob place was on Area 4 and I didn’t know if I would ever be back and I didn’t know what a Modif was, but I wasn’t going to miss that either. While writing this, I have tried to find the spelling of modif and I must be way off because I'm not finding it. Its pronounced mo-deef. I think.  Erin pulled up to the kabob place and it was a little shack with some trailers around it.

I said/asked to Erin, I don’t think they take Eagle Cash here and I don’t have any cash. Nemesis checked his pockets and he only had five bucks. Erin said we had time as the kabob place was not open yet, and she would drive us back Sather and we could pull some cash from the PX. Once we arrived at the PX, Nemesis bowed out and said his hamstring was bothering him and maybe he would go the next time. I later found out, when we pulled in to the dirt lot and he realized the kabob place was a street shack, he chickened out.  Whatever the reason, I was thrilled.

As Erin and I drove back to Area 4 I picked her brain about the kids, Scout program and anything else I could think of. She explained not all the families live on Area 4, only the lucky ones; the remaining families live in French Village which is outside and on the local economy. Husbands who work on Area 4 stay there for 4-5 days then go home for a few days and continue this rotation. She explained the importance of the Scout Program and what it teaches not only to the children but to the adults as well. The majority of society lived under the dictatorship of Saddam and what they had if anything was given to them from the government. They didn’t raise their children with the concept of working hard to make something of yourself. You were told by the government what you would do, how you would live, where you would live. Part of the transition of the country is changing the mindset of the people to think for themselves and not wait for a government to think for you.  They are frozen and can’t conceive of this concept. We talked about the frantic energy and actions of the children when doing crafts. It now makes sense. The parents have had to teach- take everything you can now, because we don’t know what we will have tomorrow. With that, they are trying to survive and don’t have the resources or the capability to invest and nourish the future of their children. The people are trying meet basic human needs. The children have not provided yet to the tribe and are not yet recognized. The Scout Program teaches both child and adult that the future is in the children. As we talked more, we drew parallels to inner city kids. When the family is run by a single parent, that person is trying to survive and provide food and shelter. Little Johnny isn’t going to get the baseball glove for Christmas or the shiny red wagon when there is no food.  You don’t not love your kids, but the time and resources to play are no there. There is no money, no hope of earning money.  Erin works with the Iraqi officials in conjunction with her regular military function to help ensure this program does not die and that the tribal leaders will take ownership in it. Its all very amazing and eye opening.

We came back to the kabob place and it was now open. Fabulous is all I can say. The rest of the group was already in side and had pushed together the plastic tables in one long row. I set my stuff down and went outside to order. I think I started to drool as I watched the owner grill kebobs over hot coals. This isn’t run to Ralph’s for charcoal coal, this is real chunks of coal that needs some kind of wax product to ignite.  He had a raised metal trench filled with hot coals and these tasty morsels of skewered meat with their drippings sizzling. I must have had a look of pure lust on my face as all I could do was stand there. A man approached me and began to explain the different meats and spoke to the cook/owner. I settled on lamb chunks and patiently waited. The gentleman and I started to talk and it turns out he lives right there in one of the trailers. He is an interrogation instructor/trainer. He told me his name, but I cant remember it. I wish I was better with names that are not the “normal” John and Mary that I'm used to. I assume people are native Iraqi’s from my own ignorance and I'm always surprised to find out they are not. This man is from Chicago and had just returned from a visit with his daughter.  He has been here in Iraq going on 8 years now and hopes his training is not forgotten when we leave. He is hopeful. He says something to the owner and then tells me he just paid for my kabobs.  I thank him and I'm touched by his kindness. I take my food inside and ask the others if they know him, and I’m met with stares. When I go back out, he is gone.

I was the only new person at the table and the others were all taking about the game. In the far corner was an old commercial freezer box with a 26’ television set playing the game, football of course and I do mean soccer. Iraqi’s are fanatical about soccer.  I sat and listened while eating my lamb. My plate had been delivered with two long skewers of meat and roasted tomatoes. Served family style were small plates with cucumber slices, tomatoes and raw onions. In the middle of the table was a huge stack of what I would call pita bread, only its bigger and better. One of the guys passed a bottle of sauce to me and said others describe it as A-1 Sauce, but he didn’t think so and I should try it. I dribbled a little on to the corner of my plate and it was incredible. I ate it on the bread. I ate it on the lamb. I ate it on the tomatoes. I'm not a steak sauce fan and I don’t know what it was, but it was good.

After dinner we headed to the Modif. The Modif was explained to me as a meeting room, a place to go for conversation and refreshments. A small group of us headed off in that direction. It too was on Area 4 and by this point, I'm all turned around and I have no idea where the gate is to get out. We arrive and I'm told the Sheikh keeps a monkey. Yep, I get to meet the Sheikh and see a monkey.  We walked into the courtyard and were immediately met by a German Sheppard type dog. He was very friendly and followed us around. On the backside of the courtyard wall I was told is where the monkey lives. Its pitch black as we stumble around and there is the monkey. One of the guys had saved some wafer cookies for him and we took turns feeding him through the cage. At first he was very cute and his little paws looked like he was wearing black gloves. He would gently take a cookie from us, nibble on it, and then toss it away. When one of the guys tried to feed him, he tried to grab his hand and was a little aggressive.  He came close to swiping one of our faces. I then tried to feed him another wafer and he grabbed my hand and startled me. His little paws are very powerful. We tired of Mr. Monkey and headed indoors. Outside we removed our boots and entered. The room was lined with carpets with pillows surround the walls. I was instructed to follow the person in front of me and greet everyone in the room as we walked around. We shook everyone’s hand and were either greeted in Arabic or English.

We took our seats in the square and were then served tiny cups of Turkish coffee. When done with the coffee, the servant returned and you are to shake your cup back and forth quickly as you hand him your cup. If you hand the cup back with no shake, he will pour more and hand the cup back. In our little group, the joke is on you if they don’t share this secret with you. On a previous trip, one person had 7 cups before they let him in on the secret. After coffee, the servant came back and gave us a small glass cylinder shape tea cup with a miniature spoon and saucer. The tea is very hot and very sweet. As more people entered the Modif, the same ritual would be repeated. The person would walk around the room and we would stand and greet them in return. This up and down was killing my knees and after the fourth up and down they shared another secret- woman do not have to stand. One of the gentlemen in our party, Francis, lives in Area 4 with his family and he and his wife joined us that night.  

Tim was sitting across from me and I had many questions for him. Every question I had, he would defer to Francis. Eventually Francis sat in the center of the room and answered my questions to the group. He is quite the storyteller and we were mesmerized.

I’m going to summarize what Francis said as I could not even begin to try and capture his words.

Sheikhs were originally the leader of their tribe and responsible for their people. He would provide food, shelter and safety.  Through the years the term sheikh has also meant to define a religious leader. A person can study to be a sheikh. One of the other main responsibilities is to provide a Modif. Modif is a place where travelers could come and rest from the long trip.

The greater the wealth of the sheikh, the greater the refreshments. A traveler would never be asked is he were hungry or thirsty as this would be an insult. This would put the traveler in an awkward situation where he would say he want hungry as he wouldn’t want to appear rude. The sheikh would order the servant, usually a young boy, to bring the weary traveler drink and food. The traveler could stay as long as he wished.

I asked what one gentleman had in his hands. Francis explained the difference between worry beads and prayer beads. Worry beads are kept in your hand to keep your fingers busy. It releases nervous energy as you think or speak while prayer beads are similar to the Rosary. There is a prayer you repeat and there are 99 beads to represent the 99 names of Allah.

He went on and told stories of his first Modif visit with his father and other antidotes. He was fascinating. Erin had told me earlier, Francis was an educated professor and had lived in a beautiful home prior to the war. He and his wife fled and have been living on Area 4 since. His youngest daughter was born after the war and never knew the old life. With the influence of Erin, he has enrolled his daughters in school.

I almost forgot, I never did meet the Sheikh. His son was there though in his Iraqi officer uniform and seemed to be a nice man. Maybe I will visit again and have another chance. One last interesting note- I'm not allowed to post pictures of any adults who live on Area 4, but the children are ok. And the gentleman sitting next to Tim is not Francis, but rather a civilian contractor who also volunteers his time.